REPLACING THE DOMETIC 2351 FRIDGE IN AN AIRSTREAM INTERSTATE

In this March 2015 post, I described our efforts to troubleshoot an 8-year-old Dometic 2351 refrigerator.  Alas, we kept having additional problems, and so we decided to replace it outright.  I won't repeat the manufacturer's instructions here - those can be found in the manuals, which include an installation guide, an operations guide, and a parts list (PDF links).  This information is intended to provide some supplementary observations in conjunction with installation within an Airstream Interstate Class B RV, specifically the T1N Sprinter-based Interstates, which I suspect used this model of Dometic almost exclusively.

In the narrow space of a Sprinter-based Class B, you probably have to take the door off the refrigerator before you move it out of its cubby.  We removed our door and then lifted the fridge above the kitchen counter and exited via the sliding door.  

Old on the left, new on the right, rear view.  The two proved to be fully compatible, with only minor changes manifesting in the intervening 8 years of production.  For one thing, the new Dometic 2351 has a slightly bowed front.  That's important, because it means you can't use an old front door decorative panel in the new model - you have to buy a new panel.  Additionally, Dometic redesigned the control panel to be covered with a clear plastic flap which eliminates the problem of bumping the buttons and accidentally turning it off as you pass down the narrow aisle of a Class B RV.

View of the three connections that exist at the rear of the fridge:
(1) A/C plug-in cord, for when the RV is on shore power.
(2) Blue and white 12 volt DC wires, for when the fridge is running on gas (it still needs power to the computerized control panel).
(3) Copper gas feed line connector.  If you are DIYing this job, be sure you test the line re-connection with soapy water to ensure no leakage.

The rear connections all proved to be compatible across the model years - nothing was changed or repositioned.  We had no trouble hooking up the new fridge.  We did, however, have trouble finding a new front panel, and so we ended up making one ourselves (we had purchased this new fridge at a discount specifically because it was missing its panel).  The Dometic instruction manual provides precise measurements for that panel.

We cut a new panel out of steel backsplash, specifically this Lowes product called Broan 24-in x 30-in Stainless Steel Metal Kitchen Backsplash.  

I actually prefer this DIY front panel because it is magnetic (in the pics you can see a small magnet-backed level on the left side of the front face, but I also plan to add other funky magnets).  The old Dometic front panel was made of brushed aluminum glued onto a thin sheet of plywood and therefore it wasn't of much practical use.

With this new Dometic, we also installed our own thermometer, because the model 2351 doesn't come with one.  The re-designed control panel means we couldn't put it off to the side as we did with our original Dometic (installation instructions are given in this post).  We had to instead place it in the middle of the Dometic label, which gives it a kind of space-age look.  In this pic, my hand is holding up the clear plastic protective panel which wasn't installed on the original 2351. 

Ahhhhhh, 31.8 degrees with the fridge running on the "Auto" setting.  I note as well that the piezo is louder in the newer fridge, which is good because I like to listen for the ignition when I am switching over to gas operation.  With this job completed, I am one happy camper, indeed.

Old and new, visual comparison.